Saturday 20 April 2013

Our rainforest haven at Bobo’s Farm, Rukuruku


We have enjoyed the peace and tranquility of the Fijian rainforest at wonderful Bobo’s Farm, near Rukuruku for two weeks. Bobo’s farm is situated in a rainforest valley, about a kilometre from Rukuruku. You cross a stream, climb a hill through a neighbouring farm and walk along a stony hillside track to get to the village.  It is very lush, and there are huge toads everywhere!
A soggy walk to the village
Rukuruku is a small village 14 km from Levuka, the principal town on the island of Ovalau, which itself lies to the east of Viti Levu, the largest of the Fijian islands where the majority of visitors to Fiji go.  Levuka was the capital of Fiji, and an important South Pacific trading town until Suva, on Viti Levu, became the capital in the late 19th century.  

Levuka is a charming, quiet town, bordering the sea, with perhaps only 4,000 people, and relatively few outside visitors - for example, there aren’t even any direct flights from Nadi,  the main airport hub on Viti Levu through most visitors pass. Some of those that do visit, stay at the tranquil Royal Hotel, Fiji’s oldest, and one of several old colonial style buildings in Levuka. Somehow fittingly, therefore, Levuka is soon to be recognised with World Heritage status, thus hopefully protecting the authentic sense of Fijian life you get from travelling around Ovalau.
If you are going to stay in Rukuruku, though, then you’d better contact Bobo first, because Bobo’s Farm is the only place where visitors stay - and they only have one cabin. 
Our cabin from the garden
.....or viewed from the path above
Bobo and Karin said on our first night: “When you are here, you are not our guests, you are part of our family” and there has certainly been a very homely feel to our time here.  In fact in keeping with the family analogy, it’s a little like Jules and I are kids again with the boys and we are all staying at a favourite Auntie and Uncle for a fortnight!  “Auntie” Karin prepares some amazing authentic, home-cooked Fijian cuisine for lunch and dinner (much the healthier option to us doing all our own meals) whilst “Uncle” Bobo takes us out on brilliant trips - a squelchy rainforest walk to a natural water slide, or a boat to a picnic on “disappearing” island of Moloi, or a ride in the back of a truck to Levuka, to name but three.
We had a formal welcome ceremony, where we all donned sulus (like saris) and sat down and drank together from the kava bowl, a traditional drink, carefully prepared from water mixed with powder derived from the root of the kava plant. 

Bobo showing us the dried kava before preparing it in the bowl
It's not alcoholic......
Our first meal......
Having a table and chairs, and a kitchenette in our cabin has helped us re-establish a routine here, preparing breakfast and then doing some travel school with the boys most days.  They’ve even managed to attend the local primary school for a couple of days!
Wish this happened a little more often
After dinner, we often sit down on the floor for a game of Vidividi, a game I’d also previously come across in Nepal, where it is known as Carimball.  It’s a little like pool, but you flick flat counters with your fingers rather than shoot balls with a cue.
The boys got the hand of it after a while
The boys love coming to Bobo and Karin’s house as they get a chance to spend time with their two friendly dogs, three iguanas and six cats!

Didn't have one that green at my birthday party!
He's lovely and his claws aren't really that sharp either!
This has been a time of calm and relaxed, down to earth family time together after the rather frenetic pace of New Zealand.  

We’ve written up about a few of our special days at Bobo's Farm with separate blog entries.

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